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Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Sunday, February 10, 2013

And the first one I made back in July. I took this pic back then but

Peeking out from under the muslin bolt on the left poor neglected

Above Ground Pool Decks

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Its been a busy week, but I am settling down with an eye toward the weekend. So heres a fun thing that happened today.

My son and I went out for lunch at a local burger place called "The Counter", where all the burgers are custom made. It was kind of confusing: they give you instructions on how to order and then a checklist and a pencil. It was a pretty decent burger, though.

In the table next to us was a guy sporting multiple tattoos, who looked familiar. Wyatt joked, "hey, its James Hetfield", Metallicas front man and guitarist.

I turned around and chuckled. Yep, it did kinda look like him. I looked again. Wait a sec; he looks a lot like James Hetfield. We sat eating our lunches and pondering if it was James or not. When we heard his voice, it pretty much confirmed it. Finally, I just decided to go up and ask. I mean, it cant hurt to ask, right?

Sure enough, it was him! So he sat and talked to Wyatt all about guitars! I gotta say, James Hetfield is just about the nicest, friendliest man a guy could meet. I mean, how often does a 14-year-old kid get a chance to talk to not only his idol, but the guitarist from one of the biggest bands in the world? Awesomeness.

He gave Wyatt an autograph. And this is where I come in. I want to make a really special rock and roll kinda frame for it. Maybe in a guitar shape or something. Maybe include the Metallica logo. Im not sure, but it will be fun!

Heres one of my favorite Metallica songs:

Heres a quickie project you can make in an hour. I found myself really humbled by the difficulty of making extremely accurate straight cuts with my less-than-Norm tools.

And if I could rant for a moment, I hate dealing with my bandsaw! It is such a pain in the ass to change blades. I practically have to disassemble the whole thing, then get it all aligned on the wheels, then tension it. I never really know if I got the tension correct. The whole process easily takes 20 minutes to half an hour. There has got to be an easier way. Plus, I hate making straight cuts on it. Im sure most of the problem lies in my technique. The blade always seems to drift. Its never as easy as setting up a fence on the table saw.

That said, this is a fun puzzle. And I swear, I must be really dumb because I always have to really think about it for a while to put it together!





Oh, and I got the inspiration last summer at the Marin County Fair:

Okay, so one of the perks of making YouTube videos is that sometimes major manufacturers send you free stuff. Last week the folks at Kreg Tools sent me a Kreg Jig and asked me to make a video using it.

If you are not familiar with Kreg, it seems their flagship product is the Kreg Jig. Basically, its a pocket hole jig, but its really cool. It makes me think about retiring my biscuit joiner.

Colorado. (I knew someone could get creative with a rectangle!)




West Virginia.



Nigeria.




Georgia.



Oregon.



New Zealand.



Louisiana.

After a rough day yesterday, I decided to go look through some local flea markets and came across this adorable vintage metal can. Isnt it cute? I love it! Its an old vegetable shortening can! Well, since I love to bake, I couldnt think of anything more fitting, so, I had to get it, right?! I filled her up with these gorgeous, snow white variety of stock I picked up at the grocery store. They immediately made me smile. Simple, pretty and cheerful.
Theyre going on my kitchen counter which just happens to be getting a mini-makeover. Since I have so much lovely barn wood to work with, I am building a rustic, farmhouse style center work table for my kitchen. Check back for that, and I promise I will do step by step pics for a tutorial should anyone ever want to build one as well. Happy day!
Sorry for the slightly crooked photos!

With a new table saw I of course wanted to start cutting with it right away, what better way to do that then to make an outfeed table for it? I decided to make a hybrid outfeed table/workbench to save on some room in the shop, although I am not cramped yet I think I will be satisfied with the bench.

Every woodworker wants something different that fits their needs. I knew that I wanted a good outfeed table and I also needed a workbench I started looking online for different ideas. I found a good video done by the Wood Whisperer about an outfeed table built from 3/4" plywood. I really liked the table and I was going to build that at first before I decided to make it a multifunctional table.

I wanted a good heavy table with a vice and maybe some bench dogs, I wanted to be able to clamp things to it, and I wanted it to be stout, sturdy and flat. So I changed the WWs outfeed table design a bit and added a 4" overhang on three sides of the table and about a 9" overhang on one side for a vice. I wanted to table good and heavy so I decided to put two pieces of plywood on the top instead of one and then a piece of hardboard on top of it.

So I went to Lowes and purchased three sheets of 3/4" birch plywood for about $42 a piece, talk about expensive! I brought them to the shop and planned on starting the bench the following day. That evening I was talking with the engineer at my mothers truss manufacturing company and he suggested that I just use some "1 by" pine instead of the expensive plywood for the framing. Also, I had been debating using MDF on the top instead of plywood to save on a few bucks. So this is the way I went, a bench built out of "1 by" pine and MDF.

The difference in price was a pretty good bit. The three pieces of MDF were $78 total compared to the $126 plywood sheets. I had enough pine scrap on hand to build the frame and then some. Overall it was much cheaper and now I have three sheets of nice birch plywood in the shop.


I didnt have much 1x4 pine to use for the framing but I had plenty of 1x10 and 1x12 pine boards that were old and warped to the point that they were unusable as a large piece. When I ripped the pine boards down to size they warp wasnt noticeable. This turned out good because I was forced to rip all the boards down on my new table saw!

Anyways, I cut all the boards for the framing to length before I began assembling the frame, which didnt take long. I got the frame glued, tacked, and screwed together and it is pretty sturdy.





I did get one piece of the MDF top cut but not attached to the frame yet. I was by myself so I was unable to cut it on the tablesaw by myself so I used my Dewalt skill saw and a long metal ruler as a guide. It was the first time I had used a guide to cut sheet goods and it worked surprisingly well.

Hi Everyone,

The annual bowl raffle for the Blue House Christmas Boutique is coming up. Tickets will be available for $2 each or 3 for $5. As soon as I have paper tickets to sell (the tickets will be available on October 1) Ill let you know. 

If you are out of state and would like to purchase a ticket, send $2 to:

Selkie Wood Works 
PO Box 21157 
Eagan, MN, 55121. 

In the envelope be sure to include your name, mailing address, phone number, and your email address. Ill fill out a ticket for you and email you a scanned image of it. 

The bowl is the rosewood bowl that I profiled on my blog earlier this year and Im placing a 
photo below. Its made out of solid rosewood and its a real beauty and a steal at only $2.




 Good Luck!!


VW

Ive started construction of the frame of the core. The edges of wood entry door frames can be visibly seen, and creates the outermost shape of the door. Once I make this frame, I will be filling it with staves (see previous post). This will eventually become one solid piece, and very resistant to warping. In these pictures, I am gluing up the side vertical rails of the frame, as well as some material to cut the arch from.
Why not use one solid piece for each part of the frame? Because if I mill separate pieces together, it will further the structural integrity of the door and give further resistance to warping. I am also using all the same type of wood for all parts of this door, so that all parts will expand and contract at the same rate. This means that even the interior core of the door is made from white oak!
I should have some pics of the assembled core frame in a day or two...

With the initial Quilt Rack assembly done and joints cut, I was finally ready to begin shaping. I began by cutting out the template from the ¼” hardboard. I rough cut with a jig saw and then used my spindle sander to bring it to the line and massage the final shape.

I had to cut out the template before cutting out the legs.

The template was then set on the leg/foot assemblies, and the shape transferred by tracing it with a pencil. Because I’ve been too lazy to tune up my band saw, I rough cut the legs with a jig saw. First I cut in from the edge to the line so that when I did cut the line small pieces would fall off as I went, reducing the chance of binding the blade. Then I cut just outside of the line.

As with most classically trained quilt rack makers, I prefer to perform my template routing in the dark. I shifted the clamps as necessary to allow the router to go around.

To bring the cut right to the line, I clamped on the template and routed around the leg/foot assemblies using a pattern bit. I’ve been down on my Festool routers lately due to their almost complete lack of visibility which results from a solid base and dust shrouds above and below the base. I used my OF1400 for the pattern routing, and continue to be underwhelmed. Though the dust collection continues to be good (but no better than my DeWalt DWP611 PK), it was the ratcheting spindle that really pissed me off. It works fine, until it’s time to remove the bit, then I struggle to get a good grip on the router while holding the spindle lock/ratcheting button with the same hand and the wrench with the other. I still much prefer a non-ratcheting (or even locking) spindle and a traditional too wrench setup for hand held routers. Simply align the wrenches properly and squeeze them together in one hand by making a fist and you can easily tighten or loosen a collet with a two wrench setup. No fighting to hold the router flat with one hand while twisting the wrench with the other.

I wish Festool could tell me how Im supposed to hold down the green ratcheting button and the router itself with one hand while working the wrench with my other hand. (I know this is a photo of the bit going on. My difficulty was with taking it off).

After pattern routing I chucked in a ½” quarter round bit and did the initial round over. This started to achieve the edge I wanted, but it was still too stiff. The next step was to throw the leg/foot assemblies in my bench vise and go at them with a rasp. I used my Auriou Grain 9 Cabinetmakers rasp and with only a little sweat I added the final bit of hand shaping that turns the uniform routed edge into a flowing, organic detail.

The legs after having the quarter round routed on the edge.

This close up shows how the curve doesnt look organic when it just off the router.

This photo doesnt do it justice, but going over the edge with my rasp (& then many grits of sandpaper) make the edge much more organic and pleasing.

In order to rasp the edge, I clamped the legs in my end vise, shifting them a few times each to keep the clamping pressure near where I was rasping.

Because the cross members are straight, the were much easier to shape than the leg/foot assemblies. Due to their narrow width I first routed the quarter round on them using a quick sled I made for my router table. I took 3 passes, each just a little deeper so as not to hog off too much material at once with the bit. Then I further defined their curves using a 5” random orbit sander and 50 grit paper.

The cross members after routing and before sanding.

Quilt Rack Photo Gallery

Will is working on a pair of zebra wood side tables. Theyre small, 15 x 18 x 22 high, but challenging. They are based loosely on the table shown above that we built in the Fall of 2007. Click the photos to enlarge them ...

Cad drawings

First step ... layout the solid wood for the veneers

join up the veneers for the tops and shelves

might be an interesting table for the future ... The zebra wood is cool no matter how you arrange it .. Id also like to do a small wall piece eventually ...

Veneered the flat sawn faces of the legs

The flat sawn stuff is really different than the zebra stuff

Tables knocked up before veneering the aprons ... with violin

more on the violin restoration later